The process
First steps
I always recommend visiting the gallery for an initial design consultation – this can also be hosted online via Facetime, Zoom or WhatsApp. Whether you wish to mark a special occasion, milestone anniversary or remodel a family heirloom, I’m here to help you explore all your options. These might include expert advice on settings, gemstones, diamond colours and clarity and what you are paying for, precious metals and keeping the brief within a manageable budget for you.
Drawings and models
A set of hand-drawn sketches is the next step. These start to bring a design idea to life and can be shared with you in person, via post or online. It’s often at this point that I make up a model of the idea in silver. Over the years I have found this to be extremely valuable for both myself and the client. Although not finished and polished like the final piece will be, the model allows the customer to actually try on the design, giving them a direct opportunity to know exactly how the stones will sit, get an clear idea of the scale and balance of the piece and, most importantly, how it feels to wear. My aim is to make a client feel as confident as possible about what they are having made.
The making
So with the drawings and the models ‘signed off’ by the customer it’s at this stage that the final piece gets under way in precious metal. Typically it takes around 4-6 weeks (including castings, soldering, hand setting stones, plating, polishing, hallmarking and quality checking), though I’m usually able to accommodate most tight deadlines.
I am always just as thrilled as my customers to see the final piece of jewellery and (hopefully!) the satisfied smiles on collection or delivery.
Commissions
A full model of the ring in silver
The setting of the ring in 18 carat yellow gold
The finished ring ready to deliver
Green tourmaline ring with coloured diamonds
Having come up with a number of sketches for this commission, the client and I spent some time discussing how the outer rim should look, and what colour the central stone should be. I had a parcel of beautiful, coloured diamonds of all different shapes that I felt would work perfectly for this, so I sat down with the client to choose a selection of these to place around the border (tucking just under the central stone).
I have a collection of loose stones at my studio, and from this, she chose a really beautiful green tourmaline. However, it was too small to use as the central stone, so the challenge was to find something similar but a little larger. Fortunately I was about to head off on my annual trip to the Tucson Gem and Jewellery Show in Arizona where after much searching I found a lovely 14 carat Madagascan tourmaline. This vibrant green stone not only matched the colour I was looking for but was an ideal size for the centre of such a special ring.
After finalising the design, I made a mock-up of the ring in silver for her to try on. She was able to see from this just how it feels and sits, appreciate its different angles, and view how the stones will be arranged. Having made the necessary adjustments, the final ring was made in 18 carat yellow gold. Usually, from this point on, the next time a client is involved is when the custom gift box is being opened…
A model of the ring face with diamonds encircling an emerald from the old ring
Detail of the newly designed foliage clasp in 18 carat white gold
The finished ring, remodelled and ready to wear
Remodelling a family heirloom
One of the most challenging and satisfying jobs that I do is to take a piece of dated jewellery and turn it into something new for a customer. This type of jewellery has often been passed down through generations as a gift and can have great sentimental value.
Like most renovation work, the art is in working together to find a balance between maintaining elements of the piece’s existing character and creating an impressive piece of new jewellery that matches the owner’s style and vision. In the case above, this beautiful diamond and emerald ring started out as a brooch and a pair of rings.
My aim was to make the central motif of the brooch the focal point of the new ring. The emeralds were very carefully taken from the two old eternity rings and set as an outer border around the brooch. The rest of the ring was made in 18 carat white gold and finished on each shoulder with a small leaf design which came from an idea within the original brooch.
The different elements of the cufflinks including gold-veined quartz stones
The patterned underside of the cufflink in 18 carat white gold
The finished product ready to wear
Gold veined marble cufflinks
A good customer of mine asked me to make a pair of cufflinks for her husband. It was to celebrate a significant birthday. I had these wonderful pieces of quartz that had natural gold streaks running through them. They were so unusual and perfect for a pair of cufflinks. I kept the fronts very simple and carried on the veining idea into the backs of the links. The tabs were hinged to make them easier to post through a shirt cuff.
Let’s get together
I welcome commissions. Please don’t hesitate to contact me if you'd like to start a conversation about commissioning a unique piece of jewellery just for you. Examples of commissioning include transforming or combining old jewellery into new pieces, incorporating stones into new settings, or simply working together to create a bespoke wedding or engagement ring or a one-off piece of jewellery that suits your taste.
If you’re ready to get in touch, or if you need more help or inspiration, just click here to contact me.